You may find galvanized iron pipe used for the water line into the water heater, in many mobile homes. This concerns you only when you need to replace the water heater. Study your old heater installation carefully. Identify the copper tubing lines at the heater and tag them. If existing pipes are not
damaged, use them.
Disconnect the gas or electric power to the heater. Turn off water at the shutoff valve. Drain the lines and the heater by opening all the hot-water faucets and the drain valve at the bottom of the heater. Avoid fouling up alignment of your home’s plumbing. Disconnect and remove the old heater as gently as possible. Using the old heater as a guide, install proper fittings on the new one. Apply pipe dope’ only to the male threads of galvanized-pipe connections, never to copper. Use barely enough dope to fill the threads.
Set the replacement heater into position. Attach plumbing and power. Turn on the water and electricity (or gas) and watch (test) for leaks. Turn on the heater. Keep close tabs for the first few hours to be sure the regulator doesn’t let the water overheat.
Give your new water heater proper maintenance and it’ll have a longer life. Never heat the tank unless it is filled with water. Don’t overheat your water. Use a 1400 setting for normal use, and no more than 160° if you have a dishwasher. Drippy hot-water faucets make’ your water heater work overtime; repair them.
Water with excessive mineral deposits builds up sediment in bottom of your heater. If the material isn’t drained off periodically, the bottom of your heater may rot out. Where the heater is in a’, bedroom closet, that could be disastrous.
Drain off sediment every 60—90 days. Open the drain valve at the’ bottom of the heater and release a few gallons of water into a pan or bucket. In tight closets, attach a garden hose to the drain spout’ and route the hot water to a bathroom or kitchen drain—or even, outside.
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